Today I want to tell you about our puzzles, but this time not from the point of view of the user (player), but from the point of view of the manufacturer of the props. Moreover, the story will be about the most interesting and difficult (forgive me decorators and artists) part — electronics.
For many puzzles, we use our standard PCB boards. We have designed and built in all the necessary components for us:
an AC-DC
socket for the controller
socket for the mp3 player
relay
transistor is installed (in case of non-use of the relay)
a squeaker (beeper/ buzzer)
capacitors
special connectors for cables are installed, which we use to connect external components of the electronics of the puzzle (buttons, sensors, readers, light indicators, various motors and others)
But there are puzzles in which the functionality of our standard boards is not enough, so the good old method of "etching boards" (PCB prototyping) always comes to our aid.
Here, I must make a reservation that if we are talking about 1-2 boards (single boards), then, as a rule, it is easier and faster to use a breadboard in electronics of a puzzle.
But when we talk about at least 4 units or more (small-scale assembly), then we always etch the boards ourselves.
This method allows you to quickly design, make and test a prototype PCB. And only when we make sure that the scheme we have drawn is correct, the components
are selected correctly, the prototype works, after that you can order a board from specialized PCB manufacturers.
Steps for self-production of printed circuit boards for escape room puzzles. PCB Etching (prototyping).
We are defining the idea and clear functionality of electronics. We draw a diagram by hand on paper.
We spread the board in the special program Sprint layout, DipTrace or analogues. The result of this step is a template (photomask) for printing.
We print the resulting template (step 2) on a special film on the printer.
We roll the film (the correct name is photoresist) onto the foil textolite. We use: single-sided foil-coated textolite FR-4, 1.5 mm thick.
We illuminate the textolite with a film with a special ultraviolet (UV) lamp.
The development of an illuminated photoresist in an alkaline solution (a special container for this solution). We wash the textolite.
In another container, we etch out unnecessary copper (a solution of ferric chloride). We wash the textolite.
We wash off the photoresist (film residues from step 4) with a solution of highly concentrated alkali. We wash the textolite.
Drilling holes for output components. Drilling is possible both by hand (with a mini drill) and with a special drilling machine for boards.
Soldering of the remaining components on the board.
Testing the board "under load".
Installing the board in a puzzle.
Testing "under load" in a riddle of at least 48 hours of continuous operation. If possible, then we test the puzzle (and all its electronics) in real conditions inside the escape room of our friends or clients, this is an important stage at which the puzzle is "rolled in" in real mode not by testers, but by players, the latter are able to destroy and break everything, well, you know that :)
* After the tests (step 11 or step 13), if necessary, make edits (step 2) and repeat all the steps again.
If at the end of all the steps we are satisfied with the result, and we understand that this board will be repeated (or may be repeated with a high degree of probability) in our puzzles, then we will definitely order a batch of boards from a specialized company.
Of course, the method of etching boards is a very old
—school approach, but when the goal is as high as possible !quickly! to make a prototype in quality "close to the factory", then there are no alternatives.
For experts in prototyping boards. we do not pretend to be the only right approach, we just share our knowledge and skills.
All the best,
EcoDecor team.
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